Behind the Wall of Sound
Photography: Nick Clements
An introduction to Jason Jules Esq.
It’s hard to pin any label on Jason Jules. He’s been in music and fashion most of his working life and frequently comes up in conversation with opinion leaders and style-makers in the major capitals. He’s a Londoner and he has his own brand called House of Garmsville. He introduced Men’s File to Kevin Rowland and he’s been heavily involved in a documentary on the legendary John Simmons. Recently he’s been hanging out in Latin America. Most bets are on Paraguay, but no one is really sure where or why and some speculate that he’s simply looking for style cues on which he can build. The truth is that nobody knows. Our editor-in-Chief caught up with the enigmatic stylist extraordinaire in a studio somewhere in East London and asked him to put together some of his everyday threads and give us his take on the subliminal language of male dress.
Jason Jules’ Text on Style: Behind the wall of sound
To me style is essentially a conversation between a select group of people, like those of us who read Men’s File. And although others might witness it taking place, there’s always a level of privacy and something exclusive about this ongoing dialogue. Fashion on the other hand is public, it’s like a speech, its goal is to capture the attention of as many people as possible. In these images, I’m wearing some of my favourite brands. There’s Drakes, Levi’s, John Simons, Ralph Lauren, Norse Projects, Brooks Brothers, Grenfell and Timothy Everest alongside some vintage items and some of my own House Of Garmsville pieces too.
For those of us into style the goal is often to go unnoticed by the crowd, deriving pleasure from being an almost indecipherable whisper behind fashions’ great wall of sound.
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Issue 18
Men’s File explores leather as a signifier of subcultural affiliations but also as a functional material that protects and serves the wearer, sometimes for decades. In this feature we present Lewis Leathers, The Real McCoy’s and the London Leather Man in an indulgent retro fantasy.
Riki’s brand is small, exclusive and doesn’t usually reflect what everyone else is doing. This genuine independence is apparent in everything the stylist wears and does.
This is the world of Fabian Jedlitschka and Pike Brothers. A realm in which post- war Americana and militaria are transposed, as they had been 75 years before, onto the picturesque German landscape and into the psyche of the nation’s fashionable youth.
There are certain street stylists, within the realm of male style, who ply their art on the same pavements on which George Brummel once trod. They are few, but their impact on the early moods that permeate menswear is immense.
Aboard this 1920s polished aluminium road rocket is Mr Derek Lee, a student of architecture and a young man of refined tastes. His suits are personally tailored in Hong Kong and his ability in finding original pre and directly post-war clothing is not in doubt.
Many years ago (Gary never says exactly when) Mr Eastman dismantled an ancient A2 flying jacket with the intention of finding out how it was made, with the idea of making a copy for himself. A few decades later and Eastman Leather Clothing is one of a select few of go-to brands for the serious connoisseur of replica militaria.
Painter, motorcyclist and collector of objects from the Old West, Nicholas Coleman lives on the edge of the old frontier town, although now very civilised, Provo, Utah.
A dedicated part-time Tiki-ist, hot-rodder and stalwart of the VHRA organisation, Jacqueline Davis is in fact a full-time professional graphic artist.
The innocence and elegance of pre-war Italy is encapsulated in this series of attractive vignettes featuring Alex Hills, Lucy Manley and an untouched 1935 Fiat 1500.
Just 5 years separate the four watches discussed on these pages, and each has their own unique personality and story to tell.
When Pomona resident Tim Scott told us ‘I wasn’t born into the hot-rodding world’ we imagined a newcomer who had recently stumbled on the scene and cynically recognised its visual potential.
Allow us to introduce you to a line of supercars (the 911 Targa to be precise), that started in 1967 and a far more contemporary ‘super-woman’, both with impeccable credentials.
Named after a province in the south east of Norway, Telemarking is a form of skiing that owes more to practicality than to sport.
The Talented and ultra-stylish New York artist (more recently of Stockbridge, Mass.) gives a masterclass in sketching in charcoal from his studio on the Lower Eastside.
The Corvair was packed with innovations, but nevertheless controversial.
Flaviano Bencivenga is a gentleman of taste and action. A dedicated motorcycle collector and rider the Zurich-based shoe designer spends much time developing both new styles.
Pierre Girard (pictured) is a classic example of a one-man subculture. He creates clothing that he would like to wear and use on his extensive collection of motorcycles...
Northern Soul is a dance and music based subculture that flourished in the northwest of England at the end of the 1960s and into the 1970s.
Somewhere in East London, lost among the crowded grid of Victorian terraced housing and forgotten warehouses, an earnest craftsman hunches over his workbench.