The Rolex MilSub 5513 (1972 to 1978)
Men’s File has never featured watches on its elegant pages simply because we don’t have the expertise to scan the historical marketplace, locate collectors and write from a position of knowledge on the subject. With this in mind, we have asked watch collector and journalist Ozy Mamodeally to enlighten our readers on his favourite watch (the Rolex MilSub) and update us in the collectable scene in the UK. Ozy introduces the concept of a watch as an industrial ‘tool’ rather than an ornament and gives us some background on the military provenance of this iconic timepiece.
Text: Ozdemir Mamodeally Photo courtesy of Daniel Wright
The Submariner line from Rolex was first released in 1953 and soon established itself as a workhorse in the diving industry and a status symbol with sportsmen and adventurers. In 1957 the British Ministry of Defense made their first order and the Rolex MilSub was born. Initially a version of the 6538 (A/6538) was supplied to the Royal Navy with a larger bezel and welded spring-bars. It was used by the Special Boat Service until 1971 when a version of the civilian Submariner 5513, known as the 5517 was developed and purchased by the MOD. Once in the hands of the Navy, the 5517 was sent out to a third party called Burford to have the radioactive paint removed and replaced with tritium for luminescence of the broad arrow hands and numerals. The ‘Burford’ dial carries a T, which indicates that the watch has been modified in this way. If the back cover of the watch is engraved with 0552 this signifies designation for the Navy (SBS) with W10 for the Army (SAS).
There’s no denying that the design of the Submariner has resulted in one of the most recognisable watch lines in the world, and whilst the MilSub is no longer Royal Navy issue, the passion for the Submariner range continues. During the 1970s, Rolex updated its glass from acrylic crystal to modern scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and the depth rating was increased to an impressive 300 metres. But it was the eighties that saw the real transformation of the Submariner, where it became cherished not only as a fine tool-watch but also as a power symbol. Thrown into the spotlight as the timepiece of choice for James Bond, (creator Ian Fleming himself sported a Rolex Explorer, so it was only natural that 007 should too), this move firmly cemented the Sub’s success as a commercial commodity. More recently, film maker and Rolex aficionado James Cameron chose the diver’s watch as his companion when filming his Deepsea Challenge documentary (a solo adventure which saw him journey into the abyss) further feulling the Rolex status symbol boom.
Fast forward to 2020 and appeal for the latest generation of Submariner has shifted to a new audience - one that covets luxury above technical prowess. Nevertheless, the Rolex MilSub is something else - it’s a trusty companion ready to take you on your next adventure. If you don’t believe me go and try one on yourself. Just start saving those pennies…
Thanks to Chris at sonningvintagewatches.com
